My first week in South Africa

On Tuesday, October 12th I left out of St. Louis on a two hour flight to Atlanta. I then got my passport checked and jumped on a 16 hour flight to Johannesburg, South Africa. There were no stops, so I watched several movies (BTW Sam you can take Robin Hood and A-Team off the Netflix Queue), and made every excuse I could to stand up. I must say one of the weirdest feelings is when the you get on the plane at dark, and 12 hours later when the first passenger opens their window its the next morning, somewhere over the Atlantic Ocean. You look at the time on the screen in the headrest in front of you to tell you when you should be sleeping. All in all I had two 30 minute naps on the plane.

When I arrived in Johannesburg it was 5:00 on the 13th, and I somewhere in between I had lost a day. The airport was hectic, and officers with dogs came around sniffing baggage, not for drugs but for agricultural products. I watched a man have to open all his baggage just because he was carrying an apple (which they confiscated). I decided it best to just take my rice seed to the agricultural customs and declare it on my way through. I came through customs out into a large open area where people pick up those arriving into the country. I think about 5 people asked me where I was going and offered to help me carry bags and show me the way. I had heard too many stories to even think about letting someone lead me around. I made my way to the hotel shuttle area, where another man came up to me about six times telling me where I should stand, and then telling me how everyone tips him for his service. I had 3 dollars in my boot (not wanting to carry any cash) so I gave him one of them. He then proceeded to tell me that he couldn't exchange just one dollar, even though he pulled out a wad of american cash when he took mine.

The hotel was very nice, with people serving wine for a social hour when I got to the lobby. I unpacked my things, and went down for dinner. To my suprise it was a chinese buffet that evening. Granted it was great food, and my first time trying braised lamb and an African bread pudding by the name of Malve. After that what I can only describe as jetlag put me to bed about 7:30 pm, only to wake up about 4 in the morning. So I watched cricket and raquetball and the last half of District 9 (also can be removed from Netflix). I also found out that South Africa is just about to premire CSI:Miami. Unfortunately David Caruso is just as rediculous in Africa as he is in the States.

The morning of the 14th Avis picked me up to take me to the Ukulima Farm, where I would be staying for the next two months. The drive out was beautiful, with rolling hills and palm trees. It was also a bit of a rude awakening. You see pictures and on TV about people in tin shacks, living 12 to a house. And it makes you count your blessings. When you see entire neighborhoods of tin shacks, people washing their clothes in washtubs, and people just sitting on the side of the road, you count them several times.

We arrived at the farm after two hours, with the last 20 or 30 mintues down a washboard dirt road. I wouldn't be suprised if I have to replace a few fillings. Everyone greeted me when I arrived, and I was shown to my house and given a gator to drive. The house is very nice, and has the majority of the comforts of home. It took awhile to get used to everything. I spent 30 minutes waiting on an oven to heat up only to find out that there are two dials to turn, not just the one. Outside in the yard on the first day I had about 6 peacocks calling, along with a variety of other birds. In every direction there are dark brown hills and mountains that look like they enclose the whole area. Things are very dry around here, and I was told that just days before I arrived they had been fighting fires on the hillsides all around, and thats why everything was dark, all the vegetation had been burned away. Their winter has just ended, and so far they have gotten 3 millimeters of rain. We were instructed not to have any open flames until the first good rain.

As for the rest of the week, things have been pretty normal. I have tried to get my bearings, and the lay of the land. I have met lots of people around the farm who have been very nice. I have been told that I am basically on my own out here, but they will be taking care of a lot of field work with me.Yesterday I was invited to a braai (which is South African for barbeque). We had a few beers, made pork steaks (or "In-Laws" according to Martin), Fish, Beef, and I made Ostrich burgers (which are good, but don't compare to good old Angus), and watched rugby. Rugby is a sport I think I could get into watching, but I think if I tried to play I would end up with a heart attack. Cricket on the other hand I watched for two hours the other night and still don't understand.

Last night I sat on the front porch and listened to the hyenas calling on the hill to our west. They tell me that about the only thing around here now are the birds, hyenas, and jackals...with about a million to one odds of a leopard. In just a few weeks they are bringing water buffalo, zebra, and impala to the refuge, with the cheetahs to follow shortly after. But the refuge is blocked off from our pivot and house by an electric fence that reminds me of a shorter version of the ones in Jurassic Park. It's really great to experience all this. I have been a lot of places, and seen beautiful landscapes...but when I looked around this place the first thought that came into my head was..."This is God's Country."

I also got to try Skype the past few days. The internet is pretty slow at my house, but if I go up to the main house it works pretty well. I have talked with Gene several times, and I got to talk with Sam and the boys yesterday. It's been less than a week and it feels like I have been away from them an eternity. It was so good to just talk with them and see them on the video, almost like sitting around the table with them. Little things like hearing about their day do wonders for the spirit.

That has covered most of the first week. I don't know if anyone will be reading this, but I hope it will serve as a kind of journal for my trip here. If I have to come back next year, maybe I can read it and remember what I am sure to forget. Sunday seems to be a day around here where I will be alone for the majority of it, so I am going to try and write then. Until next week.